Exploring the Relationship Between Outdoor Clothing and Hip-Hop

Written by Ali George Hinkins
During their conception, brands like The North Face, Helly Hansen and Nautica were destined for functional, performance-oriented environments, but, as is often the case when such things transcend their original purpose, it’s an organic process whereby they are adopted by a separate group. It’s happened countless times throughout history whether it was Mods borrowing the parka jacket or terrace lads giving Stone Island a newfound identity. In this instance, this takes us back to New York during the 1990s, a pivotal time when a bridge began to emerge between hip-hop and technical clothing, mainly fuelled by the likes of Wu-Tang, Mobb Deep and Big L who appeared in music videos or photo shoots donning The North Face Mountain Light jackets or Helly Hansen sailing jackets, both of which were inspired by their respective brand's functional roots.
Once it had transcended beyond its initial destination, this organic relationship between music and fashion began to seep into mainstream culture, permeating into youth style and beyond whilst forging a legacy that would stand the test of time. To set the scene: during the 1990s, New York was a hotbed for a burgeoning music scene which went hand-in-hand with fashion, turning hip-hop icons into style legends and solidifying a future place hold for the clothing they wore.
In the years since, this sense of 90s-fueled nostalgia has remained a long-lasting source of inspiration throughout the fashion industry, whether it be personal style or what finds its way onto the brand’s mood boards. None of this would have been possible without the key players I mentioned earlier on, including Prodigy and Havoc of Mobb Deep, Nas and members of the Wu-Tang Clan. One of the biggest co-signs came from a number of Loud Records’ advertising materials for the likes of Wild Cowboys, Mobb Deep, Funkmaster Flex and The Alkaholiks featured, featuring various Helly Hansen styles alongside the aforementioned figures. Throughout this time, seeing these individuals in music videos or on shoots donning sailing jackets infiltrated the minds of people worldwide, cementing their legacy forever. Whether it was Xzibit’s ‘Paparazzi’ or Big L’s ‘Put it On’, it doesn’t matter how old you are or where you’re from, you always remember the first time you saw something that struck a chord with you. All of a sudden, brands like Nautica and Helly Hansen that were previously only seen in functional settings were all over the place. Whether you were in the US or Europe, or anywhere for that matter, you’d have been hard-pressed to walk down the street and not see them on the backs of those around you.
In addition to the co-sign from notable figures, what else spawned this relationship between an outdoor-inspired clothing silhouette and hip-hop? Well, those among you that have ever been to New York in the winter will be quaintly aware of how bitter the East Coast can be at that time of the year. Much like inhabitants of the North of England adopting GORE-TEX outerwear, East Coast natives sought out protection against the cold and sailing jackets that utilised the latest in garment technology, notably Polartec® - a synthetic fleece material - and seam taping, became a go-to for fighting the elements. Or, could it have been down to a lust for new outerwear silhouettes that adopted colour-blocking that was totally against the grain of what was previously available?
Like other styles of vintage clothing, the sailing jacket has stood the test of time amidst wavering trends that have come and gone, never bowing down to what has stood in its way. Seeing as it’s impossible to look anywhere nowadays without seeing designers and brands creating technical-inspired outerwear silhouettes, just know that it’s here to stay. But, just believe me when I say that you ought to keep on what This Thing is cooking up. The eagle-eyed among you will know that 90s hip-hop and style is a natural subject of inspiration for This Thing of Ours, so perhaps that is a clue. Just watch this space.
Stay tuned for further updates.